Pralognan-la-Vanoise

17 August 2015:  Our topoguide for the Vanoise devotes a page to a description of "le caractère sauvage de la Vanoise dans le Vallon de la Leisse", with a lyrical introduction: 

"Lieu de manifestation de la puissance de la nature, le domaine de la haute montagne sauvage, au cœur du Parc national, est un lieu où l'homme pénètre sur la pointe des pieds, souvent avec humilité, admiration et discrétion." 

[Scene for the display of nature's power, the domain of the untamed high mountain, in the heart of the National Park, is a place where man enters on tiptoes, often with humility, admiration and discretion.]

We did not tiptoe down the Vallon de la Leisse; we planted our heavy hiking boots solidly on the rocky trail, balanced by our trekking poles.  The austere valley did, however, inspire humility, admiration and discretion.  

Yesterday's hike from the Col de la Leisse to the Refuge de la Leisse took us through rough, wild terrain.  The trail continued today down the Vallon de la Leisse along a softer gradient.  After about 1.5 hrs of easy walking, we left the valley on a trail that would take us to the Col de la Vanoise (2522 m.). 

The Col de la Vanoise was an important point of passage for commercial traffic (in particular salt – "la route du sel") from the Middle Ages until the mid-19th century.  The route to the pass from the Vallon de la Leisse comprises two very different stages:  First, one climbs a steep trail for about 1.5 hrs.  The trail then enters a broad, relatively flat valley, reaching the pass itself after about an hour of walking.  Every step of the way offers magnificent views in every direction. 

The trail descends through rocky terrain, under a looming glacier, from the Col de la Vanoise to Pralognan-la-Vanoise (1418 m.), an attractive town that is a major center for both summer and winter sports.  I spent a night here when hiking around the Vanoise in 1985, and our family enjoyed 10 days of camping in Pralognan in 2002.  So Mary and I were keen to spend a night here during this hike.

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Dawn at the Refuge de la Leisse:

Descent down the Vallon de la Leisse:

The trail climbs from the Vallon de la Leisse toward the Col de la Valoise. 

The trail passes an old blockhouse (barely visible here) that once guarded the trail. 

Farewell to the Vallon de la Leisse:

We walked through a broad, flat valley toward the Col de la Vanoise. 

An extraordinary collection of cairns in the middle of the valley:

The new Refuge du Col de la Vanoise (opened in 2014) attracts many hikers.  We paused here for coffee and tarte aux myrtilles (blueberry pie). 

The descent from the Col de la Vanoise to Pralognan. 

The Lac des Vaches, with its distinctive stepping stones, is scarcely a lake any more. 

We took a shortcut during the long descent – a ride on a chairlift. 

Pralognan:

We thought – incorrectly – that it would be easy to find a hotel room in Pralognan after August 15, so we did not reserve in advance.  The three-star Hôtel de la Vanoise had no vacancies among its regular rooms, but its "refuge room" was available:  It's a regular hotel room, with private bath and WC, but (as in a refuge) no sheets or towels are provided.  That's no problem for us – we, of course, carry sacs à viande and little pack towels – and at €40 the room was a bargain.