Moëde-Anterne

8 August 2015:  We returned to the GR5 today on a trail that we know well.  Our friend Bill drove us to the trailhead at Lignon (above Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and Salvagny, 1180 m.).  We hiked from there to and around the Collet d'Anterne (1795 m., with a great view of Mont Buet, 3096 m.).  After a short descent from the Collet, we crossed a broad, flat alpage, the site of the Refuge Alfred Wills (named after the famous mid-19th century English mountaineer who hiked and climbed extensively in this area, 1808 m.).  We paused for tea and coffee at the refuge to gather strength for the steep climb up to Lac d'Anterne (2060 m.). 

Lac d'Anterne – that's a place that evokes many memories...

I camped beside Lac d'Anterne during a hike on the GR5 in late July 1984.  There was still ice covering part of the lake.  A big thunderstorm rolled in during the night.  Tucked into my sleeping bag, inside my little tent (with two upright aluminum poles), I counted the seconds between each flash of lightning and rumble of thunder.  The intervals shortened, while the flashes and rumbles intensified...  Finally, there was an explosion – a simultaneous flash of lightning and crash of thunder.  It was terrifying!  But then the intervals between lighting and thunder began gradually to increase.  The storm moved on, and I got some sleep.  The next morning, I observed that there was no ice on the lake...

Mary and I camped beside Lac d'Anterne during our hike on the GR5 in early September 1989.  Happily, there was no thunderstorm that night; the sky was clear – but, as a result, the temperature dropped.  We discovered that our sleeping bags – adequate for camping in the Vosges and the Jura in August – were inadequate for camping in the Alps above 2000 m. in September.  That was a long, cold night!  We were happy when dawn finally arrived and we could get up and break camp.  We immediately hiked over the Col d'Anterne and ate breakfast outside, under a warm sun, at the Refuge Moëde-Anterne.  We hiked that day to Chamonix, where we had already planned to take a couple of rest days.  You can't swing a cat in central Chamonix without hitting a shop selling outdoor gear and clothing.  We spent a day in the shops and bought new sleeping bags. 

We have returned to Lac d'Anterne several times over the years since then.  The weather has usually been cloudy – threatening or delivering rain.  Today was no exception. 

Our hike today took us past Lac d'Anterne to the Col d'Anterne (2257 m.).  Dark clouds were forming as we hiked beside the lake – no surprise: storms were predicted for the afternoon.  We began to hear distant thunder as we crossed the pass.  From there, it was a 30-minute descent to the Refuge Moëde-Anterne (2000 m.).  The thunder continued, and there were a few flashes of lightning in the middle distance.  Five minutes after our arrival at the refuge, an intense storm burst over the refuge – rain, hail, wind, lightning, thunder: the full Monty!  That was a close call; we nearly added another chapter to our Saga of Anterne Adventures...

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Departure from our chalet and the Lignon trailhead:

Hiking toward the Collet d'Anterne – what magnificent views over the valley and across to the surrounding mountains!

As we passed Collet d'Anterne, Mont Blanc – shrouded in clouds – was briefly visible. 

The great dome of Mont Buet dominated the horizon. 

Looking back at the Refuge Alfred Wills as we hiked up to Lac d'Anterne:

Approaching Lac d'Anterne:

Carroll recalls previous visits to Lac d'Anterne...

Around Lac d'Anterne, a magical place...

Hiking from Lac d'Anterne to the Col d'Anterne:

Col d'Anterne, with dark clouds forming:

Descent from the Col d'Anterne to the Refuge Moëde-Anterne:

Dramatic mountains – and weather! – around the Refuge Moëde-Anterne: