Chalets de Miage

10 August 2015:  We are settling now into the routine of mountain refuges.  There is considerable variety among refuges.  Yesterday, the gardien at the Refuge de Bellachat explained to us that his was a true "refuge de montagne", and not a "refuge hôtel" or "hôtel en altitude".  This was a way of telling us that we should not expect certain amenities like showers or even hot water.  Tonight, we are staying at the Refuge de Miage, a very comfortable place – with showers!

There are common elements among the refuges:  One takes off one's boots at the entrance and wears sandals or some other shoes inside.  (We have our own footwear: "five fingers" for Mary; Crocs for me.)  One sleeps in a "dortoir" with bunk beds.  (Mary and I try to get lower beds – preferably next to a window that we can keep open during the night.)  Dinner is served at 7:00 or 7:30 – generally a set meal comprising soup, a main course, cheese and desert.  The refuge provides a pillow and a blanket or quilt; guests are expected to use their own sleeping bag or liner (a "sac à viande").  Breakfast (which can be served quite early to hikers and climbers who request it) is generally a traditional French (i.e., limited) meal: bread, butter and jam, accompanied by coffee, tea or cocoa, and perhaps orange juice.  Everyone gets organized and sets off on the day's hike right after breakfast.

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The clouds were clearing this morning, offering dramatic views of the Mont Blanc massif as we left the Refuge de Bellachat. 

Carroll used his solar charger for the first time today. 

Today's hike began with a long descent from Bellachat (2152 m.) to Les Houches (980 m.), a city in the Chamonix Valley.  We arrived in Les Houches around noon and had a good lunch in a restaurant – a pleasant change from our picnic lunches of cheese, dried meat and cucumber. 

The hike from Les Houches to Bellevue would take at least 2.5 hrs. along a trail that is not very pleasant.  (We've hiked it both ways in the past.)  We decided, therefore, to ride the Téléphérique de Bellevue. 

From Bellevue (1770 m.), we followed a variant of the GR5 that crosses the Col de Tricot.  That trail begins with a steep descent to a suspended bridge over the river flowing from the Bionnassay Glacier (1770 m.). 

Looking upstream on the bridge:

Looking downstream:

After the bridge, the trail climbs steadily to the Col de Tricot (2120 m.). 

We passed the Bionnassay Glacier.

At the Col de Tricot, we could see our destination: the Chalets de Miage (1559 m.) – one hour away. 

The Refuge de Miage – a comfortable place that falls in the refuge-hôtel category:

The refuge served a good dinner, which we enjoyed in the company of hikers doing the Tour du Mont Blanc.