The Col de Crousette was the last great mountain pass on the GR5. There is rugged hiking after that pass, but the trail does not rise above 2000 meters again en route to Nice. The trail from Roya to the Col de Crousette was worthy of its special status. After a preliminary passage through a forest, the trail bursts into the open in a broad valley, beside a rushing stream. It climbs steadily into rocky terrain, passing around a looming cliff. Then, incongruously, the trail crosses a flat, peaceful meadow. The hiker catches his breath there, before tackling the final approach to the pass, a bleak landscape of rock and scree. In short, this trail has everything that a hiker could want.
According to our topoguide, the hike from the Col de Crousette to our destination, the Vacherie de Roure (1883 m.), would take about three hours. We (i.e., Mary and I) needed four hours for that hike. So we were happy when the Refuge de Longon finally came into view!
We were pleased to see the Belgians there, but where were the Savoyards? They had left Roya before us, and they are strong hikers. About an hour later, they arrived at the refuge and the mystery was resolved: They had mistakenly followed a trail down from the Col de Crousette and then hiked a considerable distance before discovering their error and re-tracing their steps back up to the pass. So it was a long, tiring day for them. I was impressed by what they had achieved and their good spirits and unfailing energy in the evening.
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Leaving Roya, we passed the area where we had camped in 1989. It was one of our best campsites of the entire hike.
We hiked first on a forest trail...
... and then stepped out into the splendor of the open valley.
Chloé got a good rest while waiting for Carroll and Mary to catch up with her.
Continuing up the valley:
We hiked up and around (to the left) the cliff looming ahead:
Level, now, with the top of that cliff:
It wasn't all uphill!
Final approach to the pass, with the weather changing:
Col de Crousette:
Our trail continued up the slope above the pass:
Chloé and Mary led the way:
On a clear day, one can see the Mediterranean – and even Corsica – from here. Today was not a clear day...
Long, gradual descent to the Col des Moulines:
After hiking through this valley, we climbed to the Portes de Longon (1952 m.).
Final approach to the Vacherie de Roure:
The Refuge de Longon at the Vacherie de Roure:
Dinner at the refuge:
Soup is served; it was delicious!
The family's 11-year old daughter plays an active part in the operation of the refuge. She is cheerful and very conscientious in the performance of her duties.
Four of the Savoyards:
The Belgians:
We sampled some unusual génépi!
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