The trail from Utelle (821 m.) began with another scenic traverse across a steep mountainside but then descended to the valley floor to cross the river. The rocky surface of the trail made the 624 m. descent difficult and tiring.
Then, after lunch by the river (195 m.), it was time to climb up the other side of the valley to Levens (580 m.). We needed a break when we got there, so we paused at a café.
It was mid-afternoon when we started hiking again. According to our topoguide, there remained 3 hours of hiking to Aspremont, our destination. That estimate may or may not have been accurate, but the trail marking outside Levens certainly was not! Following GR trail markers, we found ourselves walking in a circle through a forest of scruffy trees and bushes, with numerous other trails branching off and intersecting the one that we were trying to follow.
We decided to re-trace our steps and walk along a road for about a kilometer to a point where we could re-join the GR5. Close to the road, we passed several people chatting beside their parked cars. Mary opened a conversation and told them that we found ourselves obliged to walk along the road for a ways. Perhaps they could give us a lift if they passed us later on the road...
We set off along the road to the next village, Sainte-Claire. (It was bad, dangerous road for walking, without a broad shoulder.) About 15 minutes later, two of the people Mary had spoken with pulled up in their car and offered us a lift – all the way to Aspremont! It was an offer that we could not – or, at least, did not – refuse.
We enjoyed chatting with the couple – Eve and Dominique – who were very friendly, with interesting projects under way in their lives. And, of course, we were very pleased to arrive at the Hostellerie in Aspremont in time for dinner!
Tomorrow's destination: Nice.
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Departure from Utelle: another sunny day!
From our vantage point, the road that is carved across the precipitous slope on the opposite side of the valley appears to be an extraordinary feat of engineering.
Recalling his discovery of fresh figs when hiking into Nice in October 1989 (his previous experience with the fruit having been limited to Fig Newtons), Carroll looked for figs on this tree. Alas, the figs do not appear to be ripening well here.
The Vésubie River:
The trail climbs to Levens:
A last look at Levens (which did not charm us) before turning into the scruffy forest with poor trail marking:
Eve and Dominque – great folks! – wave goodbye after dropping us off at the Hostellerie in Aspremont.
The Hostellerie d'Aspremont:
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