Utelle

7 September 2015:  There are no accommodations – no refuge, no gîte d'étape, etc. – on the GR5 between Saint-Delmas-Valdeblore and Utelle.  The hiking time between those two villages is 9 hours, according to our topoguide.  That's more than we like to hike in a day, but we decided to have a go at it today.  (The alternative was to leave the GR5 after about 6 hrs and to hike for another hour to a place where there is a gîte d'étape – not a very attractive option.)  Although this section of the trail crosses no fewer than 7 passes, it does not go up and down dramatically to do so.  Much of today's hike traversed across the mountainside, offering spectacular views. 

The hike did include a one-hour segment of walking on a road.  We don't care for road walking – especially during an long day – so we planned to try hitching a ride on that road.  Well, it turned out to be a mountain road with very little traffic on it, but we were lucky:  Just as we finished our lunch and began to walk down the road, a young woman (whom we had noticed shuttling between a water fountain and a stable of donkeys) drove up and stopped for us.  She had been providing water to her donkeys.  She gave us a ride and knew exactly where to drop us off to connect again with the GR5.  We enjoyed chatting with her and learning about her business of renting donkeys to hikers.  She also sells soap made with donkey's milk – savon d'ânesse – a gentle beauty product.  Those donkeys looked good.  You can buy her soap (or rent a donkey) online at: www.lesanesdelabrasque.com. 

It was a long day of hiking, ending with a tiring descent to Utelle on a rocky path.  We were pleased to settle into the municipal gîte d'étape (which we have to ourselves tonight), and to have a hearty dinner in the little restaurant in the town square.

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Departure from Saint-Delmas-Valdeblore:

The first hour of today's hike was no fun at all: straight up a steep slope with hardly any switchbacks. 

Once we reached the first pass, our trail traversed across the mountain – easy hiking with great views.  In the distance, we could see the Mediterranean! 

Inspired by Chloé, Mary has become a big fan of podcasts while hiking. 

Today's lunch included something special: a can of sardines that Carroll bought in Montbeliard in early July. 

Hiking up to and through the Brèche du Brec (1520 m.) was a special adventure, even though a group of goats was there ahead of us. 

After descending from the Brèche du Brec, our trail carved a dramatic traverse across a steep mountain slope. 

Mary discovered wild thyme and other aromatic herbs growing along our trail. 

Descent to Utelle:

The gîte d'étape in Utelle: